J.W.Green Swimming Pools Ltd.

Turning your dreams into reality.

Product review … (Mosaic Grid)

by John - May 6th, 2013

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Mosiac Design Grid:
J W Green Swimming Pools Ltd  mosaic mural grid is widely used by mosaic artists and designers to produce murals stage by stage. The grid is designed for use with 20mm x 20mm vitreous (glass ) mosaic tiles, the grid can hold 225 tiles in total, 15 tiles wide by 15 tiles high, made from an extremely durable glass resin polymer to ensure they can withstand rough working conditions.

Designs are broken down into 15 x 15 tile grid divisions, which can be combined to make large murals. Once the tiles are placed in the grid a piece of pre glued paper is fixed to their front face, the grid is then emptied by flipping the tiles on to a wooden board. Once dry these sheets are ready for fixing.

Specifications :
Size  – Approx 350mm x 350mm x 20mm
Weight : 1 kg
Tile size : 20mm x 20mm
Capacity  : 225 tiles (15×15)
Colour : Red / Blue / Black / White / Opaque (and many more)
Cost : £25.00p ex  VAT.   (£29.36 inc VAT)
Discount is available depending on quantity.

Postage :
UK Postage : £5.00p
EU Postage : £10.00p
World Postage : Please contact us as price may vary depending on location.

We also offer a service to convert any photo into a mural, more details & pricing soon.

Designed and manufactured in house by our GRP division.

Weekly tip … (Debris Covers)

by John - May 4th, 2013

If you have a debris cover, get it on the swimming pool now. If you don’t your pool will end up with a layer of leaves on the floor, which will stain a liner or marblite finish and at least stain the grout in a ceramic  or vitreous tile or mosaic swimming pool.

Some debris covers are fixed on springs to pop up anchors or on to stainless steel tent peg type fixings pushed into pre-drilled holes in the paving. Best to arm yourself with a drill, preferably a cordless one and clean out the build up of debris in the peg holes. Pop up anchors sometimes get jammed with fine dust and may need a wash out or a quick blast with a pressure washer jet to free them.

Before you fit the debris cover, ensure you have cleaned out the pool, removed all leaves and winterised the swimming pool and plant properly, dropped the water level and set some containers  part filled with gravel, into the corners and half way along the walls. No good filling containers with water, as this will freeze. If we do get heavy ice forming, the gravel will displace in the containers and hep alleviate the pressure on the swimming pool walls. We have non-returnable 20 or 25 litre Sodium Hypochlorite containers, which if well washed out are ideal for this purpose.

Weekly tip … (Green pools)

by John - May 3rd, 2013

How to cure an algae ridden pool, prevention is better than a solution, if you keep your pool dosed correctly you will never have this problem. Although heat waves, heavy rain and prolonged hot & humid weather conditions may contribute towards pool treatment products being ‘burned’ off quicker than usual thus allowing algae to breed and multiply quickly,  many pools have been reported to change colour overnight.

To prevent your pool from algae infestation add a long term algaecide at the begining of the season,  dose your pool on a weekly basis as per usual, if the weather forecast for the week ahead is warmer than normal or excess rainfall is expected it is wise to raise the dosage for the forthcoming week by 15%-20%.

If your pool is already green, don’t panic. Don’t waste chemicals trying to raise the levels using stabilised chlorine as this will not kill the algae already present in the water. You need to ‘shock’  dose the pool using a higher concentrate of un-stabilised chlorine. This can be achieved using either sodium hypo-chlorite for heavy algal growth or smaller size pools and less dominant growth can be treated using a shock pot. Unstabilised chlorine goes to work straight away on algae, usually giving a good result within twenty four hours.

If after shocking the pool water remains cloudy you may need to add flocculant to sink the remaining dead algae to the bottom of the pool for vacuuming to waste. Before flocking always remember to balance the pH. … if the water is not balanced correctly the flocculant may fail to work.

All that remains is to vacuum the algae to waste, once finished ensure you backwash & rinse your filter thoroughly.

If you require advice  on any of the points above please drop us an email and we’ll do our best to answer any questions.

Weekly tip … (Testing for chlorine)

by John - May 3rd, 2013

Testing your pool water is easy with a chlorine test kit. Firstly you’ll need to wash the water sample holder using pool water, this is done to avoid any contamination. Now to take the sample. The best place to take your sample is half way along the pool to ensure there is no bias. The reading is not taken near the inlets or skimmers. Your sample should be taken at about elbow depth (12″/30cm deep) this is to avoid a false reading on sunny days where chemicals may be at lower levels in the first 6″/12″ of water. Fill the sample holder to the top. Add 1 DPD No. 1 rapid dissolving test tablet to the chlorine side of the test kit, and one rapid dissolving phenol red tablet to the other side. Invert the test kit several times to dissolve the tablets do not shake the test kit. You should now observe a colour change. Using the charts on the test kit, compare the water sample to the chart and assess what action needs to be taken.

If the chlorine is low, dose appropriately to raise the levels.
If the chlorine is too high,  sodium thiosulphate can be used to lower the levels.
If the pH is low add pH+ to raise the levels.
If the pH is high add pH- to lower the levels.

Weekly tip … (Basic maintenance)

by John - May 1st, 2013

Our first official post and one of many more to come.
Keeping your pool clean ensures efficient flow throughout the system which in turn saves you energy and money. Maintenance involves not much more than an hour a week to keep your pool in tip top condition. Weekly maintenance should include netting, vacuuming, backwashing and a rinse, also making sure you empty the pump and skimmer baskets, treat your pool on a weekly basis checking and dosing accordingly.

Over the coming weeks we will be covering in depth the service and maintenance of your swimming pool.

Stay tuned and don’t forget to subscribe to our facebook, twitter and youtube.

J W Green (Jnr.)

Green for danger …

by John - October 10th, 2012

Please, please, please,

Keep your swimming pool clear and clean or fully protected with a winter debris cover throughout the closed season. If it is not clear, you can not see problems.

It will cost little to dose your pool for the winter, to help keep it clear and clean. This will also save you time and money come the spring and you are getting ready to open your swimming pool.

Ask  me preferably oryour local pool shop for the products to help keep your pool clear.

 

And may I introduce to you …

by John - February 27th, 2012

My Lords, Ladies and Gentlemen,

We like to think at J W Green Swimming Pools Limited that we can turn your dreams into reality.

Most of you only see the finished swimming pool, but in achieving this, there are many trades, skills and passions involved in getting to the stage, where the hose pipe is turned on and the first gush of water splashes on to the swimming pool floor.

Once you, your architect or swimming pool designer comes up with the almost  final drawings and specification, (because some things do change as the project progresses),  for the overall project, it is then and only then that we, the swimming pool  contractor, brings together all the specialist trades involved in creating the finished product.

We start with a lawn or vegetable patch, mark it out, oversee the excavation, contend with groundwater, running sand, rock, hidden obstacles such as drains, power cables, air raid shelters, in-filled moats, ancient remains of buildings, running springs, sub-artesian pressure, rubbish tips on old manor houses and as in one case on the North Norfolk coast, near to Cromer, were told to watch out for land mines.

In goes the blinding, the tonnes of steel reinforcement, the concrete base and shell, all the inlet and outlet fittings to make the water flow and help to keep your swimming pool water in tip top condition, the backfilling, the ductwork, mosaic fixing. surround flooring, air handling system, control panels, shower and changing room tiling and interior finishes to the pool hall.

We fill, run, test, commission and finally train you on general swimming pool housekeeping. After this, many people go it alone and look after their swimming pool very well. Others with a hectic life, employ staff and we train them how to look after the pool. Some people retain us on a regular basis to valet the pool and carry out the water treatment.

On most average domestic size swimming pools, it should take no more than around one hour a week to keep them in tip top condition. If you are struggling with water quality, then you are probably doing something wrong. If you took over from a previous

Whereas most trades within the building industry stick to one specific skill, such as brick laying or carpentry, your local swimming pool company will have a good knowledge of  all associated disciplines and be able to introduce to you,  several local trades people to call on, if needs be.

Weekly tip … (Opening your swimming pool)

by John - April 14th, 2011

Opening your swimming pool is a pretty simple process. If you winterised your pool before closing, it should be easy … removing the winter cover, balancing the pH and chlorine levels, cleaning your summer cover and relocating the bolts in your roller .

If you didn’t winterise your pool then the chances are it may have gone green with algae.

Don’t panic, and don’t waste chlorine granules trying to kill the algae, you will need to shock dose your pool with the appropriate amount of liquid sodium hypochlorite. This is a much more concentrated, unstabilized form of chlorine that will kill the algae within a day or so. (When you’ve add the sodium hypochlorite run your pump for 6-12hr then turn it off.(NO SWIMMING / BATHING  until the chlorine level has dropped to a maximum of 5ppm)

Once the algae is dead you will need to see if it has sunk to the floor of the pool, it should now look brown and cover the floor of the pool.

If the algae is still suspended in the water you’ll need to treat with a flocculant to drop the algae to the bottom of the pool.

The algae should then be vacuumed to waste.

The particles are so fine your filter will not remove them ensure you vacuum to waste
.

Vacuum the floor slowly so you don’t disturb the algae too much. Once you’ve removed as much algae as you can. Switch back from ‘waste’ to ‘backwash’, run backwash cycle until the water coming out is clear. Then switch to ‘Rinse’, run the pump for 30 seconds. Switch back to filtration setting.  This is a good time to clean your tile band, whilst the water level is lower than normal.  Use a good quality tile and liner cleaning paste.  Now top up your pool until the level is halfway up the skimmer mouth.

Net excess debris from the surface of the pool and ensure the skimmer pots are empty.

If the water is still a little milky add a sparkle tab as required to the skimmer pot.

Test & balance your pH & chlorine before swimming.

We recommend bringing a sample of water to our lab for further analysis. Provided for free if you subscribe to our annual water care service.  (Please call/contact us for more information.)

NB.
STOP THE PUMP EVERY TIME YOU CHANGE A SETTING ON THE MULTIPORT VALVE … if you don’t you risk damaging the multi-port valve & seal.

 

Another good tip is to always turn the multi-port valve in one direction, this will ensure your multi-port valve & seal last as long as possible.

ALWAYS READ THE LABEL AND FOLLOW SPECIFIC PRODUCT INSTRUCTIONS.
We take no responsibility for damage to property/equipment and or to persons incurred by following this guide.

How useful are counter swim currents?

by John - March 11th, 2011

Yes sir, they are great!

What is a counter swim current ?
A counter swim current is a special water jet which is usually installed in  the wall of the pool. The water jet strength and direction can be adjusted, some models feature an air and water mixture for varying the strengths and effects of the  current.

What are counter swim currents used for?
Use it for massage, swimming against, as a water feature, or to bounce you round the pool while you lie on your inflatable and of course it is possible to have a pool just three or four metres long and swim for miles without even turning round.

You can plug a massage poker in or fit grab rails as extras.

How to install ?
Build the unit into the pool wall or buy an after market model where the motor is housed  in a unit on the pool side.

If you thinking of installing a counter swim current or just want some advice on your build contact us we’re more than happy to help.

Weekly tip … (Swimming pool winter damage)

by John - January 17th, 2011

Now that the worst of the winter weather has passed it might be worth taking a stroll up the garden and having a look around the pool and surround to see if there has been any damage to your pool. The cold weather can often cause tiles to crack and on older pools mosaics may need re-fixing. There is no real fool proof way to protect your pool from winter damage but regular checks and service are the best method for keeping your pool in optimum condition.

If your pool isn’t still frozen over add some chlorine to prevent it from turning green this will save you money in the long run as you wont need to shock dose the pool before opening it in the summer.

If you are an existing customer or live in the UK / Midlands we offer a complete pool / spa refurbishment service, from minor jobs to major restoration please contact us for more information.

We hope you all had a good Christmas

Happy new year from all of us.